At the start of the twentieth century fashion began to keep up with, and often lead, the brisk pace of modern life. Much like today, modern materials worked hand in hand with classic, traditional styles. In 1909 Mariano Fortuny patented a method of pleating silk that allowed him to make beautiful gowns. The European elite took up this gorgeous new style. They were loved because they greatly differed from the rather constricting gowns of the nineteenth century. These were loose and lightweight gowns that daringly showed off a women’s curves. Though Fourtuny’s designs were innovative his gowns were all rooted in tradition. His Delphos dress was said to be a reinterpretation of the clothing in ancient Greece. The pleating, while structured, captures all of the romance of the era. Fortuny’s pleating technique has been a secret and has never been successfully copied.